Mendoza

After a 45 minute flight on Aerolineas Argentinas airlines (which was very, very nice), we arrived in Mendoza and were met by Andy and Tracy who had rented a car for us to share during the next two days. We were staying at a hacienda a half-hour's drive from downtown Mendoza and this gave us some transportation around the area.

The Las Terradas Suites where we stayed had 5 bedrooms with in-suite bathrooms, and graciously, our group saved the largest one for us! It was a beautiful home surrounded by a large lawn with a swimming pool. There was a large dining room where we had a delicious breakfast each morning with the Argentine version of croissants - called Medialunas (half moons) along with a variety of cereal, sliced meat and cheese and fruit. No starving in this country!!

With all four couples arriving that day, we went to a supermarket and got the makings for substantial snacks (not forgetting the wine) so we could sit around and catch up. Tracy and Andy had been to Bariloche before arriving in Mendoza, Richard and Cheryl had come from Ecuador - flying into Santiago, Chile and taking a bus over the Andes to Mendoza. Marilyn and Fene had taken the overnight bus from Buenos Aires to Mendoza with a sleeping compartment, meal and cocktail service and movies!!

We went to an Italian restaurant for dinner that night in a new and bustling upscale shopping center..quite a place!

The next day, Sunday, we split up -- Marilyn, Fene, Richard and Becky to go horseback riding -- and Doug, Cheryl, Andy and Tracy to see Mendoza.

(Becky's narrative.)The horseback riding experience was wonderful - we took the van up through sage brush into the mountains, finally cresting a ridge and finding ourselves in a vast, green valley! The fields were mainly potatoes and grass, lots of wild mustard and purple thistles and surrounded by mountain peaks. We were at about 6,000 feet. On the ride up, Jannika, our wrangler, introduced us to the art of drinking mate. She spoke excellent English as her father was British by birth, mother from Australasia, although she had grown up on an estancia in Patagonia.

We arrived at the lodge, met the horses, saw where we would be having lunch later and, some more gracefully than others, mounted and we began the ride. The horses were very sturdy and well trained and although the saddles were not much more than a rawhide frame covered with blankets for a cushion they were amazingly comfortable.

We rode through turn rows in the fields and through a wash that meandered through the valley. There were few trees so vistas were amazing. Horses roamed the property free (unless they were being used as ours were) and we imagined that they watched with pity for the poor fellows that were working that day! We saw lots of birds, quite unafraid of us. You could almost ride right up to them. There were lots of tall thistles which the horses seemed to find quite tasty.

The horses were very surefooted which came in handy as we climbed into and out of the wash at pretty steep angles (at least for those of us who rarely ride!). We were out for about 2 hours returning to the lodge for lunch. We had a beautifully set table with good wine, the best empanadas I have ever had, typical Argentine grilled meats (not the tender cuts but the tasty, chewy ones), more wine and dessert. Stuffed, a little stiff and sore, and very happy we climbed into the van for the 1 1/2 hour ride back to Las Terradas. I found it a very special experience and appreciated the more experienced riders putting up with my plodding pace.

As one group was riding, the remaining group went into Mendoza and spent several hours walking in the Central Park (larger than the one in NYC). It was Sunday so families were out enjoying the sunshine, there were racing shells on the lakes, fountains, and lots of trees - a great open space in the middle of a city. Unfortunately, almost all of the stores in the city were closed so no browsing was possible.

The group ended up getting a US fix of Walmart, which was open! It was big, had covered parking, and lots and lots of merchandise.

That evening our hosts put on a wine tasting of Kaiken wine. The house was owned by Adriana, who had spent a lot of time in Montreal, and her three daughters. One daughter worked for Kaiken winery as a guide so we got this special treat.

Monday, Valentine's Day, was the day of our 35th anniversary lunch. Marilyn, Fene and Becky had not seen any of downtown Mendoza so Andy and Tracy took them into town theywalked around the main plazas admiring the fountains and trees that lined the streets, stopped for a cup of coffee at an outdoor cafe and found a great wine store, where Becky was able to purchase a wine we had been looking for since we were in Argentina the last time!! The group took a cab back to Las Terradas in time to freshen up and get ready for the trip to O. Fournier Winery.

We had arranged for a bus to pick us up, take us there, wait for us and return us to Las Terradas as we discovered, after we had arranged the lunch, that it was 80 Kilometers from where we were staying! The Argentina wine country goes for many miles along the edge of the Andes - almost as large an area as the Central Valley of CA. We passed miles of grapes and miles of sagebrush before arriving at O. Fournier. O. Fournier is an amazing place - and best to go to their website at: www.ofournier.com to see it. The building is unique, very modern and every inch designed for a function. It is all gravity flow and great care has been taken to use the breeze for cooling, the sun for lighting all the areas and operate in a very efficient, eco friendly manner. We had a good tour guide and after the tour we arrived at the restaurant for a gourmet 5 course lunch comlete with multiple reserve wines. It was special that so many of our friends had joined us for the occasion and we were delighted to be able to provide this treat. Lunch was delicious, served at the Argentine pace - leisurely - and we had lots of toasts, took lots of photos, and it was a very memorable day for us.

We all snoozed a bit on the bus ride back!!

Monday, 6 of us did a wine-blending tour while Richard and Cheryl scouted the area and arranged their return transportation. We visited one winery which had a beautiful building but we didn't care for the wine and then on to Kaiken where the wine blending took place. We were three teams - Tracy and Becky, Marilyn and Fene and Andy and Doug (who had been researching with the expectation of winning). We were given three glasses and three tastes of a Malbec from three different vineyards. They all tasted quite different. Each team developed a formula for the blend based on percentages of each type, and mixed up a bottle of their special brew. Then we did a blind tasting. After the votes were in, including those of the tour guides, Tracy and Becky had the winning blend. They were able to mix up three bottles of their blend to take home. So each couple put one bottle in their suitcase and we will drink the wine when Cheryl and Richard come to Boquete in April!

We then went to Ruca Malen winery for a tasting lunch -- a seven-course meal with seven paired wines!

Unlike California, most winerys are only open to visitors by appointment. Given the distances and the sheer number of wineries in the area (900) a tour is the best way to go.

Back at Las Terradas we sipped wine all afternoon, chatted and celebrated Andy's 60th birthday! Tracy had arranged with our hosts to provide a variety of Argentine pizzas and a chocolate dessert extravaganza.

We left Mendoza with many fond memories and very full stomachs.